- Welcome to Aviation Photographers of Southern Ca..
Posted by Midnight Mover
- July 21, 2009, 08:05:46 PMAlways keep extra cameras available. Remember it's only money 
Posted by NikonGuy
- July 21, 2009, 07:37:17 PMGreat stuff, Robert! Thnx! 
Posted by CHILIBEAN
- July 21, 2009, 07:15:36 PMI would say get it checked out even tho its in working order..Keith,Robert & Dui remember that one sunday where i was having problems...well that problem cost me $180 and 3 weeks later its still in the shop (canon service center). Also what i had found out, that after so many shutter clicks that it need some kind of servince to keep it in order depending on how much you use it.
Is it time for a camera tune up?
In the "old days" of film cameras, pros would have their cameras CLA'd (cleaned, oiled and adjusted) on a regular basis. Even point and shoot and Instamatic users were urged to periodically check battery and flash contacts for corrosion. Lenses and viewfinders needed to be cleaned and camera bodies given a general wipe down.
Today, digital cameras still can stand a bit of maintenance, but the process is quite different than the CLA of the past. But some things do remain the same!
Battery contacts still need to be checked and lenses and viewfinders cleaned. I'll get to batteries in a moment, but first a caveat about lenses.
Modern lenses have wonderful coatings that boost contrast helping reduce the "flare" that sometimes occurs when strong light falls directly on the lens. These coatings are delicate! Do not use anything on the lens surface other than an approved lens cloth or tissue.
If you use a cloth, make sure no dirt or grit has gotten on it. Store the cloth properly and DO NOT just toss it in your camera bag or (worse yet) stuff it in your pocket. Microfiber cleaning cloths are usually washable, which is a good thing to do periodically.
Lens cleaning liquids are still available, but need to be used carefully. Do not use commercial glass cleaners designed for windows and cleaning counter tops.
Rule #1 is not to put drops of liquid on the lens, put them on the cloth or lens tissue. Liquid placed on the lens can run down the curved sides and possibly get inside the lens system. This would not be a good thing!
And here's another warning: Do not try to wipe off the electronic finder with any liquid unless it is specifically approved for screen use. Other liquids may act as a solvent, fogging or dulling the screen.
Compact cameras with retractable lenses usually do not need as much attention as those with lenses always exposed to the elements. Some non-retracting lenses may have some kind of glass cover over them. But this can still get dirty and still needs to be treated with some degree of care!
Battery Check
Owners of cameras using the standard sized AA or AAA cells should check for corrosion or, more likely, a slight film that can build up on battery contacts and cause problems. Use of anything but rechargeables, alkaline or lithium batteries is not a good idea. Older "super heavy duty" zinc-carbon batteries don't last long and may leak. And it's always a good idea to remove batteries if the camera is not used for an extended period of time.
Owners of cameras with the specially shaped rechargeable cells need to check them for viability. Many begin to show signs of aging after two years. It's a good idea to write the date of purchase on them.
Firmware?
Finally, something that most people don't think about. New or older, check with the camera manufacturer's website for something called a "firmware upgrade." This is a small bit of software that you download and -carefully following the instructions- load into your camera.
Firmware upgrades update the software that runs the camera. These upgrades may improve performance or correct for "bugs" that were found after the camera was put on the market. These upgrades can be offered shortly after a camera is introduced or, in some cases, a year or more later when enough improvements are indicated to offer the upgrade.
In most cases, the customer is asked to place the software on a storage card and then insert the card in the camera. Depending on the model, the upgrade might be detected automatically, or certain buttons pressed while powering up the unit to start the process.
In all cases, it is absolutely necessary to either have a fully charged battery or have the camera on AC power. That's because the upgrade overwrites files stored in a special memory area of the camera. If the camera loses power midway through the process, the camera may become inoperable.
It is also important to be sure the upgrade is for the exact model of camera you own and that it is not an earlier uneeded firmware package. For example, your camera may have already had the upgrade done at the factory, and only older models need the improvement.
The bottom line is that upgrading your camera firmware is important, but it also important that you read all instructions carefully. The process may at first seem a bit intimidating and unforgiving, but is not as difficult as it looks!
Keeping Your Camera Clean
In today's world of electronic auto-everything cameras, we recommend only minimal cleaning, which we'll cover shortly. The most important thing is to try to avoid the need to clean in the first place. Try to keep your camera away from the elements that cause the most harm: dirt, dust, sandy grit, and saltwater spray are the mortal enemies of most types of cameras. Keep your camera protected if you're on a windy beach and the sand is flying. Don't get too near those big waves to take the picture of your nephew frolicking in the surf. Use your zoom lens instead.
If you want to take pictures in the surf, or poolside, or even underwater, I suggest you consider the inexpensive single use film cameras that come with a waterproof casing. It's possible to get great results with them.
Don't touch the shutter blades!
Film cameras present another story. You need to keep the internal chamber where you load the film clean and free of dirt and grit that can scratch your film and negatives. However, anytime you open your film camera, heed this important warning: Be extremely cautious and avoid touching the metal shutter inside any modern auto-exposure camera.
Avoid "canned" air for camera cleaning.
The reason I recommend a rubber bulb blower to blow dust and grit out of the inside of the camera body is that when squeezed, it provides a concentrated "puff" of air, but not the overly powerful "gush" that most brands of canned air supply. At NYI, we avoid canned compressed or propelled air, regardless of whatever type of propellant is used because the burst of air can be too strong, particularly for today's delicate electronic camera systems. In addition, some types of canned air use a propellant that--if you tilt the can downward -- shoots out a burst of solid, frozen stuff. Who needs that in your camera or on your lens?
Why do I use a separate cloth and squeeze bulb instead of the little squeeze blowers sold in camera stores that have a little brush on the bottom? Because I find those little blower/brush jobs are useless -- the bulb is too little to give a good puff of air, and the brush is too flimsy to get the job done.
Cleaning Lenses and Filters
If you need to clean an SLR lens, I suggest you start by using the blower first to blow all loose dust or grit off both the exposed face of the front lens element and the exposed face of the back lens element if it's easy to reach. There should be no way for dust or dirt to enter the lens barrel and affect the internal elements of the lens. Then use your micro fiber cloth to finish the job. I use the same combination for glass and plastic filters as well. Lots of photographers don't bother to clean their filters, which is a big mistake since they're more likely to get covered with fingerprints than the camera's lens.
What if I see dust in my SLR's viewfinder?
Generally, dust that you see in the viewfinder of your Single Lens Reflex (SLR) is dust that has settled on the mirror or prism of your camera. While annoying, it will not show up in your photographs. If you ever take your camera in for a general cleaning and lubrication, it will disappear. Don't try to clean the mirror. A dusty mirror, like the one pictured below, won't affect your photographs.
To Repeat, Less is More, and Easy Does It
By the way, a little bit of dust or a tiny finger smudge on your lens is not going to translate into an exact image of that dust or fingerprint on your photo. Your camera is not focused on the lens' outside element. Rather, the problem with dust and smudges is that they cut down slightly on the amount of light that the lens transmits, thus having a small effect on exposure. Large smudges or a film of dust can degrade the image by lowering contrast, cutting exposure a tad, and making the photo a little less sharp. The other problem with some types of oil that get onto lenses (and filters) is that the longer they're left on the glass surface, the harder they are to remove. The oils can actually etch their way into the coated surfaces of the glass on the outside element of your lens.
Final Tip: A Bag Helps
One difference between pros and photo hobbyists is that pros keep their cameras in bags. A bag is likely to provide much better protection for your camera and other equipment than if you keep your camera loose in your suitcase, handbag, or briefcase. There are lots of soft and compact bags you can use to protect your camera, whether it's a film or digital model.
If you do keep your camera in a bag, and if there's room, there's one other very inexpensive accessory I recommend – a plastic bag that's big enough to hold your camera, your film or extra camera memory cards, and any other accessories. I find this plastic bag is very handy when I encounter a sudden summer thunderstorm or find myself on a speedboat that can catch a wave or spray of its own wake. I just open the bag and pop my entire camera bag into it. Believe me, it has come in handy more than once.
Just follow these simple tips, and your camera will be ready for all the great photo opportunities that summer has to offer.
Is it time for a camera tune up?
In the "old days" of film cameras, pros would have their cameras CLA'd (cleaned, oiled and adjusted) on a regular basis. Even point and shoot and Instamatic users were urged to periodically check battery and flash contacts for corrosion. Lenses and viewfinders needed to be cleaned and camera bodies given a general wipe down.
Today, digital cameras still can stand a bit of maintenance, but the process is quite different than the CLA of the past. But some things do remain the same!
Battery contacts still need to be checked and lenses and viewfinders cleaned. I'll get to batteries in a moment, but first a caveat about lenses.
Modern lenses have wonderful coatings that boost contrast helping reduce the "flare" that sometimes occurs when strong light falls directly on the lens. These coatings are delicate! Do not use anything on the lens surface other than an approved lens cloth or tissue.
If you use a cloth, make sure no dirt or grit has gotten on it. Store the cloth properly and DO NOT just toss it in your camera bag or (worse yet) stuff it in your pocket. Microfiber cleaning cloths are usually washable, which is a good thing to do periodically.
Lens cleaning liquids are still available, but need to be used carefully. Do not use commercial glass cleaners designed for windows and cleaning counter tops.
Rule #1 is not to put drops of liquid on the lens, put them on the cloth or lens tissue. Liquid placed on the lens can run down the curved sides and possibly get inside the lens system. This would not be a good thing!
And here's another warning: Do not try to wipe off the electronic finder with any liquid unless it is specifically approved for screen use. Other liquids may act as a solvent, fogging or dulling the screen.
Compact cameras with retractable lenses usually do not need as much attention as those with lenses always exposed to the elements. Some non-retracting lenses may have some kind of glass cover over them. But this can still get dirty and still needs to be treated with some degree of care!
Battery Check
Owners of cameras using the standard sized AA or AAA cells should check for corrosion or, more likely, a slight film that can build up on battery contacts and cause problems. Use of anything but rechargeables, alkaline or lithium batteries is not a good idea. Older "super heavy duty" zinc-carbon batteries don't last long and may leak. And it's always a good idea to remove batteries if the camera is not used for an extended period of time.
Owners of cameras with the specially shaped rechargeable cells need to check them for viability. Many begin to show signs of aging after two years. It's a good idea to write the date of purchase on them.
Firmware?
Finally, something that most people don't think about. New or older, check with the camera manufacturer's website for something called a "firmware upgrade." This is a small bit of software that you download and -carefully following the instructions- load into your camera.
Firmware upgrades update the software that runs the camera. These upgrades may improve performance or correct for "bugs" that were found after the camera was put on the market. These upgrades can be offered shortly after a camera is introduced or, in some cases, a year or more later when enough improvements are indicated to offer the upgrade.
In most cases, the customer is asked to place the software on a storage card and then insert the card in the camera. Depending on the model, the upgrade might be detected automatically, or certain buttons pressed while powering up the unit to start the process.
In all cases, it is absolutely necessary to either have a fully charged battery or have the camera on AC power. That's because the upgrade overwrites files stored in a special memory area of the camera. If the camera loses power midway through the process, the camera may become inoperable.
It is also important to be sure the upgrade is for the exact model of camera you own and that it is not an earlier uneeded firmware package. For example, your camera may have already had the upgrade done at the factory, and only older models need the improvement.
The bottom line is that upgrading your camera firmware is important, but it also important that you read all instructions carefully. The process may at first seem a bit intimidating and unforgiving, but is not as difficult as it looks!
Keeping Your Camera Clean
In today's world of electronic auto-everything cameras, we recommend only minimal cleaning, which we'll cover shortly. The most important thing is to try to avoid the need to clean in the first place. Try to keep your camera away from the elements that cause the most harm: dirt, dust, sandy grit, and saltwater spray are the mortal enemies of most types of cameras. Keep your camera protected if you're on a windy beach and the sand is flying. Don't get too near those big waves to take the picture of your nephew frolicking in the surf. Use your zoom lens instead.
If you want to take pictures in the surf, or poolside, or even underwater, I suggest you consider the inexpensive single use film cameras that come with a waterproof casing. It's possible to get great results with them.
Don't touch the shutter blades!
Film cameras present another story. You need to keep the internal chamber where you load the film clean and free of dirt and grit that can scratch your film and negatives. However, anytime you open your film camera, heed this important warning: Be extremely cautious and avoid touching the metal shutter inside any modern auto-exposure camera.
Avoid "canned" air for camera cleaning.
The reason I recommend a rubber bulb blower to blow dust and grit out of the inside of the camera body is that when squeezed, it provides a concentrated "puff" of air, but not the overly powerful "gush" that most brands of canned air supply. At NYI, we avoid canned compressed or propelled air, regardless of whatever type of propellant is used because the burst of air can be too strong, particularly for today's delicate electronic camera systems. In addition, some types of canned air use a propellant that--if you tilt the can downward -- shoots out a burst of solid, frozen stuff. Who needs that in your camera or on your lens?
Why do I use a separate cloth and squeeze bulb instead of the little squeeze blowers sold in camera stores that have a little brush on the bottom? Because I find those little blower/brush jobs are useless -- the bulb is too little to give a good puff of air, and the brush is too flimsy to get the job done.
Cleaning Lenses and Filters
If you need to clean an SLR lens, I suggest you start by using the blower first to blow all loose dust or grit off both the exposed face of the front lens element and the exposed face of the back lens element if it's easy to reach. There should be no way for dust or dirt to enter the lens barrel and affect the internal elements of the lens. Then use your micro fiber cloth to finish the job. I use the same combination for glass and plastic filters as well. Lots of photographers don't bother to clean their filters, which is a big mistake since they're more likely to get covered with fingerprints than the camera's lens.
What if I see dust in my SLR's viewfinder?
Generally, dust that you see in the viewfinder of your Single Lens Reflex (SLR) is dust that has settled on the mirror or prism of your camera. While annoying, it will not show up in your photographs. If you ever take your camera in for a general cleaning and lubrication, it will disappear. Don't try to clean the mirror. A dusty mirror, like the one pictured below, won't affect your photographs.
To Repeat, Less is More, and Easy Does It
By the way, a little bit of dust or a tiny finger smudge on your lens is not going to translate into an exact image of that dust or fingerprint on your photo. Your camera is not focused on the lens' outside element. Rather, the problem with dust and smudges is that they cut down slightly on the amount of light that the lens transmits, thus having a small effect on exposure. Large smudges or a film of dust can degrade the image by lowering contrast, cutting exposure a tad, and making the photo a little less sharp. The other problem with some types of oil that get onto lenses (and filters) is that the longer they're left on the glass surface, the harder they are to remove. The oils can actually etch their way into the coated surfaces of the glass on the outside element of your lens.
Final Tip: A Bag Helps
One difference between pros and photo hobbyists is that pros keep their cameras in bags. A bag is likely to provide much better protection for your camera and other equipment than if you keep your camera loose in your suitcase, handbag, or briefcase. There are lots of soft and compact bags you can use to protect your camera, whether it's a film or digital model.
If you do keep your camera in a bag, and if there's room, there's one other very inexpensive accessory I recommend – a plastic bag that's big enough to hold your camera, your film or extra camera memory cards, and any other accessories. I find this plastic bag is very handy when I encounter a sudden summer thunderstorm or find myself on a speedboat that can catch a wave or spray of its own wake. I just open the bag and pop my entire camera bag into it. Believe me, it has come in handy more than once.
Just follow these simple tips, and your camera will be ready for all the great photo opportunities that summer has to offer.